Restaurant Review: Pinche Tacos

November 15, 2012
Two years ago I was at a summer movie night and grabbed some tacos from a local food truck.    Honestly, they blew me away and not just because they were the best 'food truck' tacos but because their flavors were spot-on and the ingredients were bold and delicious.  The name was clever, Pinche Tacos and owner, Kevin Morrison said his business was doing so well he was going to open a restaurant location soon.

Morrison did just that and Pinche Tacos in Capitol Hill is flourishing.  The restaurant even made Bon Appetit's '50 Best Restaurant 2012 Nominations' which is a testament to their traction in the culinary world.  Yes, even street tacos are having a culinary moment.

Pinche Tacos is small, loud, filled with lively energy and always busy.  You will be greeted by at least a handful of people standing around waiting for a table so, make your way to the bar and order a Jalisco Donkey Show; smooth Republic Blanco Tequila, fresh lime juice and punchy ginger beer all served in a copper mug.  While you sip on your drink (or two depending on the busyness of the evening) you will have waitstaff passing by carrying large plates filled with beautiful tacos that are sure to get your mouth salivating.

They take a low-key approach to ordering off their small but complex menu at Pinche Tacos.  Your waiter will drop off a slip of paper similar to a sushi restaurant and the rest is on you to decide what tacos fits your fancy.  Priced out by the individual taco, diners are able to order as many they would like which also makes this place great for groups.

Hands-down the best taco on the menu is the Agridulce; slow braised sweet and sour pork belly on top of crunchy cabbage, a bright cilantro slaw, candied garlic and a side of braising jus.  Dunk that taco in the braising juice because so much flavor and some needed moisture brings this taco to a whole new level.  Another favorite came in the subtle flavors from the Queso a la Plancha; griddled cotija cheese, creamy avocado, roasted tomatillo salsa and lime.  Make sure you also order at least one of the finger licking-good Carnitas.  The crispy roasted pork is tender and smoky, it's paired perfectly with pungent pickled red onions and rich avocado crema.

It is no surprise that Pinche Tacos is doing so well, they have a great product, a lively atmosphere and tasty drinks to keep diners coming back over and over again.  I give some serious credit to Morrison in his business plan to start out on the streets of Denver with his food truck before opening up the doors to a brick and mortar operation.  He was able to get some serious culinary buzz and demand which seems like it is now paying off for him and taco lovers alike.


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